at Goodbye Horses
the London establishment that has always fascinated me
I remember the first time I walked past Goodbye Horses, too nervous to actually enter and ask for a seat, but completely overcome with a desire to be a part of what was happening behind the iron-rod facade of a flat-turned-wine-bar. It was October 2024, my first weekend in London during a month-long sublease. I had just escaped from a walk through central London, somewhere in Mayfair, and took the first overground line East. I took the ephemeral yet fated walk through De Beauvoir where I felt the tune of my heartstrings change. I found myself at dusk, passing through quiet neighborhood streets, and my Google Maps telling me I’d arrived, and yet I couldn’t place Goodbye Horses on any personal maps I’ve ever drawn before.
I’ve been to many neighborhood wine bars; you could say they are my favorite kind of establishment. But GH didn’t fit this paradigm. It had the crowd reminiscent of Aux Deux Amis in Paris, filling a concrete bench courtyard that looked like a statue garden from ancient Rome. The side windows were lightly curtained, hiding the contents of the interior from onlookers, and if you caught a glimpse through the door that would sometimes swing open, you could see the outlines of a massive canvas hanging in the ether, with lines and creatures that decorated a lampshade over the arc of wood that doubled as a bar. My brain struggled to assemble all the fragments of this scene, and add the definition of “wine bar” next to it. I hung around the entrance for a second too long, and decided to start the trek back to Southwest London, feeling like I’d just seen a UFO and would have to come back and investigate another time.
I’ve now been to GH numerous times. It’s the first place I want to take my out-of-town visitors. And while I think the food is delicious and the wine program impressive, those aren’t the first reasons I cite when telling friends to book a table. It’s because it’s truly unlike any other wine bar I’ve ever been to, nor have I found one in the almost two years since I first approached its doors. I’m most impressed by how Goodbye Horses not only rewrote the script for wine bars but created their own category that no one has been able to replicate since. The space speaks of a completely unique vision, like breaking out of a mold we’ve been told is necessary to have a flourishing neighborhood wine bar. It’s not sweet and cutsey and neutral-toned. It’s also not too cool for its own britches, making everyone feel like they need to be part of a certain club to be entertained. I deeply admire Goodbye Horses for singing its own tune.
Which then begs the question, where did the inspiration come from? How did the owners ignore their Instagram feed long enough to create something so out of the ordinary? I’m taking notes!
Eating, Drinking, Enjoying - Weekend Recap
Eating
The Plimsoll
Of course, of course, of course the burger. But what about this too-good-for-its-own-good carrot & ricotta starter with curry and mint? Started the meal wayyy up.
Drinking
Tempo
This Viognier & Chardonnay blend. I was looking for something mineral and refreshing, so my glance didn’t immediately go to this by-the-glass option on the menu (Viognier usually feels more floral and bouncy to me). This still had a quenching acidity, with delicate notes still floating in each sip. Surprising and delightful with our fantastic Asian cuisine.
Enjoying
The Baring
It’s about a 14-minute walk from my new flat, with 85% of the route along the canal. Most evenings there are a few late-night bookings available, and I’ve so enjoyed having a cozy pub with a menu that 75% of the time stays the same, with some variability for new things to try. For my New Yorkers, consider this my new Commerce Inn.
